Cold smoked salmon so delicious that you’ll want to build your own smokehouse (2006 IFFA)

After a spectacular start in 2005, the Independent Food Festival & Awards are back, and I’m honoured to have the opportunity to participate.  The IFFAs, hosted by Hillel of tastingmenu.com, let food bloggers from around the world recognize people who create exceptional food.  Each award is creative and unique – so if you take a look at other food blogs this week, you’ll find many unusual and impressive awards being presented.

In keeping with the theme, I wanted to create an award for something I truly enjoyed.  Last year, my award was for the Maple Syrup Confection Worth its Weight in Gold, and this year I’ve decided to present an award for Cold Smoked Salmon so Delicious that You’ll Want to Build Your Own Smokehouse.  To clarify (for all those people who may not think like me) – if I like something a lot, I’ll usually try to make it myself.  So, if I were to eat an amazing piece of smoked salmon, I’d probably want to figure out how to make it... which would in turn entail building my own smokehouse or acquiring a smoker.  Hopefully that makes sense and doesn’t sound too crazy.

I love eating cold smoked salmon (also known as lox) for its melt-in-your-mouth silky texture and its savory smoky flavour.  Growing up, I used to look forward to the rare occasions when a relative or friend would bring it as a gift, or when my family would travel to Canada’s coastlines where cold smoked salmon is much more abundant.  After moving to Toronto, I’ve had it a bit more often; however it’s still a delicacy that I reserve for special occasions.

So therein lies the rub.  I know I really enjoy cold smoked salmon, but since I don’t eat it regularly, I have no idea if what I normally eat is actually good relative to its counterparts.  This year’s tasteEverything festival seemed to be the perfect opportunity to find out, so I spent last Saturday wandering around Toronto, purchasing small samples of cold smoked salmon from my normal purveyors and from those that I had read good things about.

I’m no expert at cold smoked salmon, but there appear to be a number of variables that can distinguish one type from another.  These include the type of salmon, the type and length of curing, and the temperature, length, and type of wood used for smoking. 

To provide a more balanced tasting, I invited my friends Ken and Nancy (who you may remember from last summer’s gelato adventure) to join me.  In an effort to make the tasting as impartial as possible, we first tasted several random control samples to get a feel for the variety of salmons.  The hope was that this would put the salmons on a more level playing field, since it’s natural for judges to lowball the initial competitors in order to leave room for improvement.

Next, we proceeded to taste nine unmarked dishes each containing 10g slices of a particular type of cold smoked salmon.  The dishes were sampled in random order, and non-salted crackers and water were provided to cleanse our palates between samples.  Without discussion, Ken, Nancy and I graded each sample’s flavour and texture on a 10-point scale.  Afterwards, the scores for flavour and texture were totaled and were used to rank the salmons from 1 to 9.  I then combined our individual rankings for each salmon sample, as shown in the table below, and the salmon with the lowest combined rank was declared the winner!

I’m pleased to announce the award for the Cold Smoked Salmon so Delicious That You’ll Want to Build Your Own Smokehouse goes to J. Willy Krauch’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon!  The salmon comes from J. Willy Krauch & Sons in Tangier, Nova Scotia and is available at Chapman’s Essential Foods in Toronto.

Its flavour is absolutely wonderful – a perfect balance of salt, smoke, and herbs highlights the rich flavour of the salmon.  Its texture is succulent – very smooth and juicy.  According to Chapman’s, the salmon is cold smoked for 2½ hours, instead of the usual 1 hour in order to further concentrate its flavour.  Consequentially, it is slightly denser than the other smoked salmons we tried, but it's certainly not dry at all.  Perhaps the only downside to J. Willy Krauch’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon is its price at Chapman's ($99.50/kg or $45.23/lb), which was the most expensive of all the salmons tasted.  However, you can order directly from J. Willy Krauch & Sons (1-800-758-4412 or 902-772-2188) for $40.81/kg or $18.55/lb plus shipping!

Honourable mentions go to our second and third place salmons: Mike’s Organic Pacific smoked salmon and Milbree-Viking’s Atlantic smoked salmon.  Mike’s Organic Pacific is a mildly flavoured Chinook that’s very smooth and moist.  Milbree-Viking’s Atlantic is a more rich and flavourful smoked salmon, smoked in-house and sliced paper thin.  It was actually the least expensive of all the smoke salmons we had.

As for what I wouldn’t recommend… to be honest I think that any of our top five selections are perfectly fine and delicious.  Compared to these five, my old standard - Nanuk’s (that comes frozen and came in at number seven), seemed dry and overly smoky. 

And so now it’s come time for me figure out how to make my own cold smoked salmon and build a smokehouse.  Perhaps someday, I’ll be able to make smoked salmon good enough to send to you all, but for now, here are our rankings, comments, and the specifics for each of the smoked salmons we tried.

Item Overall  Clement  Ken  Nancy  Sum    J. Willy Krauch’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon 1  1  2  1  4    Mike’s Organic Pacific Smoked Salmon 2  4  1  1  6    Milbree-Viking Cold Smoked Salmon 3  2  2  3  7    Caviar Direct Scottish Style Smoked Salmon 4  3  2  6  11    Pusateri’s Smoked Atlantic Salmon 5  5  5  4  14    Mike’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon 6  7  5  7  17    Nanuk Smoked Pacific Salmon 7  9  5  5  18    Caviar Direct New York Style Smoked Salmon 8  7  8  9  24    Chapman’s Spring Atlantic Smoked Salmon 8  8  9  7  24

J. Willy Krauch’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon
Rank: 1
Available from: Chapman’s Essential Foods or by mail order from J. Willy Krauch & Sons (1-800-758-4412 or 902-772-2188) in Tangier, Nova Scotia.
Cost: $9.95/100g at Chapman's, $4.09/100g direct)
Species: Atlantic

Clement: Wonderful flavour and perfectly seasoned.  Smooth, dense, but still moist.
Ken: Silky texture, and the right (amount of) chewiness.  A bit too salty, oily but not excessive.
Nancy: Excellent flavour.  Silky smooth.  Wonderful.

 

Mike’s Organic Pacific Smoked Salmon
Rank: 2
Available from: Mike’s Fish Market
Cost: $5.28/100g
Species: Chinook

Clement:  Smooth and moist, mild pleasant flavour.
Ken: Very silky texture and soft texture.  Light smoked flavour.
Nancy: Excellent salmon flavour.  Silky texture.  Nice colour – very nice appetizing appearance.

 

Milbree-Viking Cold Smoked Salmon
Rank: 3
Available from: Milbree-Viking Inc.
Cost: $4.60/100g
Species: Atlantic

Clement: Rich and flavourful.  Paper-thin, very smooth and silky.
Ken: Paper-thin slice.  Texture is good but would be too chewy if thicker.
Nancy: Silky, melt in mouth.  Excellent flavour.  Excellent overall.  One of the better samples.

 

Caviar Direct Scottish Style Smoked Salmon
Rank: 4
Available from: Caviar Direct
Cost: $7.50/100g
Species: Atlantic

Clement: Flavourful, smoky, salty, and a bit meaty – good in small portions.
Ken: A bit salty but good in both taste and texture.  Not as smooth.
Nancy: Mild flavour, slightly salty.  Texture slightly rough.

 

Pusateri’s Smoked Atlantic Salmon
Rank: 5
Available from: Pusateri's Fine Foods
Cost: $9.86/100g
Species: Atlantic
Clement: Moist and juicy.  Mild flavour.  Cut is quite thick (6 mm tapering to 0).
Ken: A bit fishy.  Smoked flavour is too light.  Sliced thicker but texture is okay.
Nancy: Mild subtle flavour.  Pleasant.  Texture is smooth, but not melt in mouth.

 

Mike’s Atlantic Smoked Salmon
Rank: 6
Available from: Mike’s Fish Market
Cost: $4.84/100g
Species: Atlantic

Clement: Mild flavour – too bland for me.  Smooth.
Ken: Amazing texture but very little taste.  Smoked flavour carries out in aftertaste.
Nancy: Unremarkable.  Okay taste (distinct salmon/fish taste).  Texture also unremarkable.

 

Nanuk Smoked Pacific Salmon
Rank: 7
Available from: Seafront Fish Market and at grocery stores nationwide (frozen)
Cost: $5.88/100g
Species: Wild Sockeye

Clement:  Grainy and dry.  Very smoky, but little salmon flavour.
Ken: Woody taste is good, but texture is not as smooth.  Strikingly red, not as oily.  Feels weird on tongue.
Nancy: Slightly too thick, but nice mild flavour.  Initially put off by colour.

 

Caviar Direct New York Style Smoked Salmon
Rank: 8
Available from: Caviar Direct
Cost: $7.50/100g
Species: Atlantic

Clement: Bland and mild salmon flavour.  Too smoky.
Ken: A bit too tough.  Nice “smoked” woody flavour.  A smoked salmon version of beef jerky.
Nancy: Fishy, chewy, a bit too dry.  Did not like texture.  I wouldn’t buy it.  Not much going for it.

 

Chapman’s Spring Atlantic Smoked Salmon
Rank: 8
Available from: Chapman’s Essential Foods
Cost: $7.95/100g
Species: Atlantic

Clement:  Crunchy texture, reminds me of raw salmon.  Quite oily.  Slightly off taste (not fresh?)
Ken: A bit too fishy.  Very fishy aftertaste.  Not at all smoked.  Too chewy, tough.  I bit into a stringy part.  But looks good.
Nancy: Authentic salmon taste (but too fishy for me!).  Very nice appearance.  Good texture, although more chewy than I prefer.

Comments

[sam]

I wouldn't expect any less of a scientific approach to the awards from you Clement. I really love smoked salmon and I would benefit from doing a taste test myself, to stop me buying the ones that arent so great.

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

Great review! I feel so more educated now!

[chika]

Great job Clement! it's interesting how you all ended up rather similar ratings for the nine salmons... the good ones must really make difference. You might want to figure out how to have those wonderful Canadian smoked salmons reach Tokyo, too, perhaps? :)

[Tania]

Fascinating! I usually go for Mike's (and was happy to see it came in second), but am seriously intrigued by Willy Krauch's. I'm surprised, though, that you didn't have Kristapson's among your samples. Just curious as to why ...

[Clement]

Sam - I rarely do taste tests, but enjoy them immensely since they're a great way to contrast and compare, and understand what separates the good from the great. If you need any volunteers for your own taste tests, let me know!

Bea - Glad you liked it, I had lots of fun doing it!

Chika - That's true... I didn't expect there to be such a wide range in flavour and texture. I'm not sure about Tokyo, but if you're ever in Toronto, I'll be sure to have them ready for you to try!

Tania - Thanks for asking (I was wondering if someone would ask!) I really did want to include Kristapson's since I've heard many good things about them. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that they close at noon on Saturday, aren't open on Sunday, so I wasn't able to buy anything for our Sunday evening tasting. I'd still really like their smoked salmon sometime.

[Sarah]

Do you prefer your smoked salmon straight up on a slice of chewy baguette with unsalted butter (always good), on a bagel with cream cheese and capers, or incorporated into a recipe? Any favorites to share?

[Lady Amalthea]

Having grown up with smoked salmon from the local deli Sunday afternoons on a bagel, I had no idea that smoked salmon could be so varied! I'm gonna have to try mail-ordering some from Krauch's now!

[kevin ashton]

I began blogging only seven weeks ago and am enjoying it greatly.
I'm hoping time to mould my blog into
a quality food blog such as yours; your passion for food comes across in your writing.
Me...I'm a long time chef who began writing merely 3 years ago (with still a lot to learn).
If you have time to view and comment on my own food blog, that would be wonderful encouragement.
Regards
Kevin Ashton
www.wannabetvchef.blog.co.uk
to the reader.

[Casey]

Dear Clement,

Your site is amazing and your photos are inspirational! Thank you =). I noticed that you made a grand marnier and chestnut souffle. How did they turn out? Can you please send me the recipes you used for them? My mom loves souffles and I want to surprise her when I go home.

Your site is amazing! Your dessert pictures inspired me to bake (and buy Pierre Herme's Chocolate Desserts AND Deserts book =P). Thank you so much!

Cheers,

Casey

[Clement]

Hi Sarah - I think I just like anything (and everything) that has smoked salmon. To be honest, I probably haven't had either one enough to have a clear favourite.

Lady Amalthea - Let me know how you like it!

Kevin - Thanks for your kind words and congratulations on your new blog. I'll definitely take a look.

Casey - Thanks! Both soufflés turned out quite well (although I've never actually had a soufflé other than those I've made - so what do I know?!) I'll send you the recipes shortly.

[Tyler]

I love smoked salmon too. What really inspires me about this post is the way you went about the taste test. It makes me want to go out and do a taste test of my own! Thanks for your contributions to the blogging and eating world!

[Jane]

I always thought smoked salmon was smoked salmon, thanks for informing me differently.

[amanda]

I know it is a bit late in the day to comment, but did you try Kristapsons smoked salmon (smoked in TO)? If not, it is well worth the trying... probably some of the best I have had.
Cheers!

[Marv Sokoloff]

Sorry folks. I hate to tell you, but you've missed the boat.
If you are really interested in tasting Canada's best cold smoked salmon, contact me at marv@sokoloff.net or 416-707-9480.
I'll get you a sample free of charge.

[Ian Smith]

You need to try Caviar Direct's (www.caviarforsale.com) Hand carved 'Maritime' Smoked Salmon. Only available through special order around Xmas time. Like Willie's but even better and more affordable! I never had such good Smoked Salmon. I always buy a whole side for my family each year. Only wish they carry it year round! Get your name on their Christmas list for orders to get some.

-Ian

[Katherine Horsman]

I just did a Google search for Willy's smoked salmon and your blog came up. I love it! I also desperately love that smoked salmon. I was born and raised in Halifax but now live in NYC, where I find more often than not that the salmon tastes like it has been smoked with tobacco. I'm not kidding....its disgusting. I am looking forward to finding out if they ship to the US!

Thank you for the useful information!

best,

[Zik]

I just got a whole gift pack of cold smoked salmon from Wildcatch but I don't know how to prepare it, does anybody know of sources for reciepes for cold smoked salmon? All I can find is stuff for fully cooked salmon. Thanks!

[Penny R]

Hello! I am actually a grand-daughter of Willy Krauch! Just for fun I googled the company, and in result found this site. Thank-you all for the comments. I Personally dont work their anymore, but their is also Hot smoked salmon which is really yummy too. Most popular being the Lemon Pepper flavour. The others is BBQ style (straight up hot smoked with only salt and no additional seasoning),Garlic, and cajun. Also Mackerel, eel, trout, and herring.

And might I add, if you are EVER interested in making your own smoked salmon pate, never bring your self to buying can salmon. Make the best, with the best call and ask for smoked salmon remnants. Bascially these are peices of sliced salmon thats didnt come from the slicer as nice as we like it. Still the same fish, just not as thin.

thanks for the comments :)
-Penny R