About a month ago when Jennifer and Lyn invited Canadian food bloggers to take part in today’s Taste Canada event, they asked us to answer the question: What does Canada taste like to you?
That shouldn't be too hard I thought, after all I've lived here all my life. All I needed to do was think of something I liked and associated with being Canadian. Days passed without an answer, and eventually I realized that I couldn't really say what was Canadian to me, because I had never experienced anything else. Of course, it would be easy to say that things like maple syrup and ice wine are Canadian, because Canada is a leading producer of those products. But to figure out what Canadian food I would miss most if I were to move away and live in another country... that’s something only experience can answer.
And so for the past few days I’ve just been sitting here puzzled, twiddling my thumbs, and looking at everyone else’s impressive entries. I was troubled (and perhaps even a bit embarrassed) that my favourite foods I grew up with, Pillsbury croissants, Jell-O, and chocolate were all distinctly non-Canadian and were abundant in other parts of the world.
The more I thought about it, the more I realized that for me, Canadian food is much more about the experience than about a particular type of food. For the past two years I’ve lived in the heart of downtown Toronto, about a two minute walk from the CN Tower. Each weekend I make the short trek to at least one of Toronto’s fine food markets.
A twenty minute walk east brings me to Toronto’s historic St. Lawrence Market, a large indoor market with about a hundred different vendors selling an array of fresh produce, meats, seafood, deli, and baked goods. I’ll try to go early (they open at 5:30), and start at the north farmer’s market where I’ll usually buy a dozen Friday-laid eggs, a head of lettuce, and whatever fruits and vegetables are in season. Then I’ll cross the street to the south market and pick up a small chicken or a pork tenderloin, some cold cuts, a loaf of bread (usually challah), and a small block of cheese (usually gruyère). Finally, I’ll pay a visit to the everyday Dominion supermarket to buy my dairy (lots of cream and butter in case you haven’t noticed), juice, and anything else that comes pre-packaged. A week’s worth of groceries for me usually weighs about 60 lbs., so I’ll normally take the streetcar home. But in the dozen or so times when I’ve spent every last cent I had, well, I’ll just say that the walk home took a lot longer.
During the summer months, I’ll often walk twenty minutes north of my home to Kensington Market. It’s much more of an outdoor street market compared to St. Lawrence. The streets are lined with small shops selling everything from organic ice cream and fruits, to spices and dried goods from around the world. On the way home I may stop by Chinatown to pick up some Chinese groceries and barbecue pork. There are two tropical fruit stores that sell a wonderful assortment of fruits at very reasonable prices. A few weeks ago I tried dragon fruit and mangosteens for the first time. The durians always look so tempting and exotic, but if I buy one, I’m afraid that I’ll forever be known as the guy with the smelly apartment.
Although St. Lawrence and Kensington both have an abundance fresh seafood and produce, when I need the best that I can possibly buy, I’ll take the subway north for six minutes to Summerhill to shop at the row of stores affectionately known as the Five Thieves (because everything there is that much more expensive).
It’s the place to go for meyer lemons, baby white carrots, baby pineapples, or just beautiful ingredients in general. Pisces Gourmet has some of the city’s freshest and most beautiful fish, so I’ll usually buy my fish for tartare and sashimi from there. On my way home, I’ll sometimes stop by the Cookbook Store to stare at gorgeous and expensive cookbooks. “Can I really afford to spend $300 on a cookbook today? No. I’ll just come back next week to stare some more.”
While I normally only visit one of these markets each week, there have been days when I’ve been to all three, in a mad rush the day before a dinner party, or on a fruitless search for something so rare as edible gold leaf (because it’s illegal in Canada). Each area has its own strengths, and although I visit them all quite regularly, I feel as though I’ve only scratched the surface in terms of what they have to offer.
I should also mention that there are a bunch of other small shops scattered around downtown I like to frequent. The well aged Canadian Prime rib eye and striploins at Grace Meat Market in Little Italy are wonderful and a bargain. Sanko in West Queen West is the place to go for Japanese ingredients downtown, and across the street, Clafouti Pâtisserie makes my favourite tarts.
And so that’s what Canada tastes like to me. Three wonderful markets located only a few minutes from my home. Each one unique in its own way. I am truly grateful to be living here, and I feel blessed to be Canadian.

Those markets all sound great!
Posted by: clare eats | July 01, 2005 at 12:20 PM
I'm turning green with envy! There are a few great markets and shops to visit in Calgary, but we are far from the diverse and vibrant scene you've painted of Toronto. It's certainly getting better here as the city grows, but there are still too many things I can only get by mail. Great post!
Posted by: Liz | July 01, 2005 at 03:19 PM
I love it when the farmer's markets open here in Ottawa, usually around early June and we only have one vendor selling vegetables that he gets from southern Ontario or the US. It is only in July that the produce from over here make their entrance along with the other vendors. Short season, but wonderful.
Posted by: Ana | July 02, 2005 at 09:19 AM
great post. Why is edible gold leaf illegal in Canada?
Posted by: Randi | July 02, 2005 at 02:16 PM
You shop in exactly the places we shop (no surprise there, really) with one exception. It is only under duress that we go to the five thieves' shop. If we plan to spend a collosal amount on produce or steak, we go to Puseteri's at Lawrence and Avenue Road (there is also a shop now on Bay street, just north of Bloor)
I think you're also into cheese, Clement? If you haven't already, you neeeeeeed to go to the Cheese Boutique (45 Ripley Avenue)- a bike ride west on the Martin Goodman trail to the bridge that crosses the Humber then go north on the east side of the Humber to Ripley.
They have some fabulous cheeses there and they are absolutely passionate about it. Ask for the aged Swiss gruyere (around 12 years old).
-Elizabeth
Posted by: ejm | July 02, 2005 at 06:51 PM
"You shop in exactly the places we shop" ~ Elizabeth
My thoughts exactly! That's what Canada and in particular Toronto tastes like!
Glad you have to back blogging.
Posted by: Carol | July 04, 2005 at 02:16 AM
I heartily second the reccomendation of the Cheese Boutique. An absolute must! What a wonderful post, Clement - one that touches on the same problem many of us were facing with this event. Canadian cuisine is borderless and far-reaching, yet utterly personal and specific to our own experiences. Well done! I am fighting an urge to hop the GO and head up to Toronto for some food therapy.
Posted by: tara | July 04, 2005 at 09:11 AM
Thank you so much, Clement for this wonderful round-up of Toronto food purveyors. I'm sure I've stood next to you in line or fought over bread and produce with you at the St. Lawrence some Saturday morning...without even knowing it!
Thanks for joining in on Taste Canada - hope to see you next year!
Posted by: Jennifer | July 05, 2005 at 10:15 AM
Clare - They're all very nice. Someday I'd like to travel around the world to see how they compare to other markets.
Liz - I feel very fortunate to be living in Toronto, and I’m guessing that every city has its own specialties. I'm envious of the wonderful beef you have Alberta, and if I lived in Calgary, I'd be tempted to stop the by Bernard Callebaut factory for fresh chocolates every day!
Ana - I wish I had taken time to visit the farmer's markets when I lived in Ottawa. I’m not even sure where Ottawa’s farmer’s markets are located. I've only ever visited Byward Market, but I trust that there's something much bigger and less touristy.
Randi - I don't have any first hand information on gold leaf, but according to Golda from Golda's Kitchen: "Health Canada has determined that gold leaf and gold flakes are no longer considered non-toxic, and therefore are for decorative use only." McCalls cake decorating site also says something similar. Even though I haven't had much luck finding it in Toronto, I think you can still order it from Chocolat-chocolat
in Montreal.
Elizabeth - Thanks so much for your recommendations! I occasionally visit the Pusateri's in Yorkville, but I much prefer the one on Avenue for its larger selection. I've never been to Cheese Boutique - I've heard so much about it, and I'd definitely like to go some day soon.
Carol - I'm so glad to be living in Toronto. Our city is so diverse; I love exploring different neighbourhoods and trying foods from all around the world.
Tara - I really hope to visit Cheese Boutique soon... it's just a bit out of the way for me since I don't have a car or bike. I really liked your taste Canada entry too, your cornets look so delicious!
Jennifer - Thanks so much for hosting Taste Canada. If I ever see you at St. Lawrence, I'll be sure to say hello!
Posted by: Clement | July 11, 2005 at 01:33 AM
Your blog makes us want to visit Canada on a vacation in spite of the cold!
Posted by: deccanheffalump | August 08, 2005 at 02:14 PM