A La Cuisine!

Macarons (IMBB 10)

I have never been to Paris, but when I eventually go there someday, I plan to visit the renowned pâtisseries of Pierre Hermé and Ladurée to try out all their macarons.

Without a doubt, macarons are my favourite type of cookie. And since Jennifer of the Domestic Goddess has proclaimed cookies to be the theme for this month's Is My Blog Burning?, I chose to make three flavours of macarons: Matcha-Chestnut, Caramel-Fleur de Sel, and Toasted Sesame.

Macarons (not to be confused with coconut macaroons) are characterized by their smooth and paper-thin, dome-shaped shell. Underneath is a chewy, cake-like layer, and underneath that, is a ruffled skirt called the feet. Macarons are simply made from egg whites, ground almonds and icing sugar, and they're often sandwiched together with a spread of buttercream or jam. The result is a 'cookie' that gives an initial crunch before slowly melting in your mouth.

Molecular Gastronomy Resources

I’ve just begun to read Harold McGee’s recent revision of On Food and Cooking: the Science and Lore of the Kitchen. The book covers a wide range of topics in detail – from how cheeses are made, to the science behind tempered chocolate. As you might expect, the explanations can sometimes become quite technical. But the writings I’ve read so far have been very clear and concise, and relatable to my own cooking. Hopefully this book will help me become a better cook. After all, who can question your cooking technique when it’s been scientifically proven to work?

While I’m on the topic of molecular gastronomy ('the science of deliciousness’), I thought I would compile a list of resources to help keep track of developments in this rapidly changing field. Posted below is what I’ve come across so far, and I’ll continue to add to the list as I learn more. Please feel free to leave a comment or e-mail me if you have anything to add, or if you feel that something that’s listed shouldn’t be there.

Index
Columns, Forums and Blogs
Tutorials
Books
Papers
Videos
Organizations, Companies and Events
People
Restaurants and Stores
Technologies
Ingredients

Apple Melody Cake (SHF 2)

My entry for the second edition of Sugar High Fridays comes one day late. Despite learning weeks in advance that the theme would be apples, I was inevitably overcome by procrastination, and my unfortunate habit of not reading the entire recipe before starting. Nevertheless, I did end up making an Apple Melody Cake from the book Desserts by Pierre Hermé.

The Melody cake, from top to bottom, consists of a garnish of apples, a layer of cinnamon crust, a layer of génoise (sponge cake), caramel Bavarian cream, baked Fuji apples infused with orange, and two more layers of génoise and cinnamon crust. I chose this recipe because, like most Pierre Hermé dishes, it plays on a balance of different flavours and a contrast of textures.

A Review of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Cookbook

Using any recipe involves a great deal of trust. Personally, I’d much rather pay $50 for a cookbook with recipes that are well-written and accurate, than take a chance with recipes from an unknown source. For the cost of ingredients and the time I spend making a dish, I feel I owe it to myself to make sure I’m working with the best recipe I can find.

Although recipes for French comfort food are easy to come by, I had been eagerly anticipating Thomas Keller’s cookbook on the subject for the past year. If you're familiar with my blog, you may have noticed that I’m a big fan of Keller’s French Laundry Cookbook. Not only do his dishes taste wonderful, but his techniques and preparations are more refined than any other cookbook I’ve seen. And while it’s true that the amount of refinement can make his dishes long and elaborate, everything is done for a reason, and the results have always been worth it.

Three weeks ago when Keller’s Bouchon cookbook finally arrived, I was bouncing off the wall with excitement, and then I was blown away. Much like his food, attention has been paid to the smallest of details in this book. The writing and photographs are beautiful, and the recipes I’ve tried so far have been delicious.

Science in the Kitchen

From low fat to low carb, from tiramisu to crème brulée - it often seems as though our diets are influenced by the trend of the day. Yet despite all these changes, the cooking techniques we're most familar with are those that have been refined through many generations.  Likewise, the foods most of us eat still remain light years away from the pill-sized meals of the Jetsons, and for the sake of anyone who likes to eat and cook, I hope it remains that way.

Of course there’s nothing wrong with sticking with traditional techniques.  They'll almost certainly serve as the foundation for every cook's repertoire, and they'll always have their place whether they're used to make classic or contemporary dishes. But having said this, it’s good to know that there are an increasing number of chefs who are eager to challenge and depart from the techniques which they were taught.

Many of these chefs delve into the field of molecular gastronomy, where cooking becomes both a science and a craft. Here, the focus is on understanding the science behind cooking, and possibly debunking long held beliefs, such as the myth that browning meat seals in its juices. In some cases, chefs have been able to peruse their knowledge to create dishes that seem odd, but taste delicious. Ferran Adrià’s apple caviar, and Heston Blumenthal’s sardine on toast sorbet are two dishes that come to mind. Chefs often work alongside scientists such as Harold McGee and Hervé This, who focus on “culinary transformations and eating phenomena," or as McGee puts it, “the scientific study of deliciousness."

Not About Food

In light of Tuesday's election, the reviews and recipes I had been meaning to post this week seem out of place. Although I'm Canadian and this blog is primarily about food, Tuesday's results trouble me greatly and for now, food seems much less important. At the very least, the results serve as an endorsement of what has happened in America and the world during the past four years. What worries me the most, however, is that the decisions and appointments that will be made by the next administration could profoundly affect America, Canada, and the world for generations to come. Obviously, if you agree with their decisions, this is okay, but based on the past four years, it’s likely that many of us will not.

So what should we do? Well I don't know. While I certainly hope that I'm overreacting and that my fears will be proven wrong, taking a passive and reactive approach would be complacent. Conversely, condemning and taking preemptive action against a 'new' administration that has been fairly elected would seem unfair and hypocritical. Even if we decide to take action, what can we do? Perhaps the only solace we can find right now is that many of us feel the same way, and are ready to make our voices heard.

Whether or not you agree with my opinion, I urge you to keep an open mind, and to make an effort to understand how others, particularly those who disagree with you, have arrived at their opinions.

And now, back to regularly scheduled programming.